BOAT TOUR: We lucked out because this was included in our trip package when we booked it through Bus2Alps, but I would highly recommend doing a boat tour. I don’t think they cost more than 25 euro a person and your tour guide will point out really cool things you might not know otherwise, such as the famous Faraglioni Rocks which are the backdrop for some high end campaigns such as the Dolce and Gabbana advertisements and commercials. They also pointed out where Leonardo DiCaprio stays, as well as where they have filmed a few movies. *It was a little rocky at points so if you get sea sick very easily this may not be the best option*
The Faraglioni rocksThe all white buildings in the center of town was very reminiscent of Greece
THE BLUE GROTTO: On our boat tour, we stopped at the Blue Grotto. I had heard of it a few times but didn’t really know what to expect. Our tour boat stops and these tiny row boats come up to us and we split up into small groups of three. We jump into our tiny wood rowboat and then go up to this boat that acted as the cashier because it turns out going in the Blue Grotto isn’t free. It cost us around 10 euro a person not including a 2 or 3 euro tip. Once we paid, our guide told us to lay completely flat in the boat and then next thing I know we’re going towards the mouth of the cave that was 2 meters. You can see the mouth in the photo below where the small rowboats are heading but the actual hole we went through was frighteningly small, about a meter tall (hence why we had to lay down). Once we got inside, it was unlike anything I had ever seen, nor will see again. It’s a natural sea cave that appears to be lit from underground fluorescent bright lights but without editing, this is how blue the water really was. It was absolutely spectacular and I can see why it’s one of the most treasured sights to see in Capri. If you’re lucky, your guide will serenade you with Italian songs as you’re inside the cave, and it’s pretty small so the sound echoes which makes it even louder.
Our tour guide with a few boats headed toward the Blue Grotto in the backgroundThe Blue Grotto, such an incredible sight to see firsthand. We were pretty much at the back of the cave so you can see just how small this cave is, making it that much more special
CHAIRLIFT TO MONTE SOLARO: Easily the best 10 euro I spent there. We walked up from Capri Town and took the bus up to Anacapri, the highest point on the island. From there, we walked around and found the signs for the chairlift. I was a little hesitant to get on it because I’m not much of a skier and have very little experience on a chairlift. The seat comes at you quickly and you just sit down in a seat by yourself that takes you on a 10 minute ride up the coast. The view was pretty cool going up but even better going down.
The view of Capri going up the chairliftMy friend Erin admiring the island from the top of Monte SolaroMe and my friends Brynne, Erin and Sandy at the top of Monte SolaroIt was hard to tell where the water ended and the sky began, really making you feel on top of the worldThe chair ride headed back down
Food and Drink
LIMONCELLO: Limoncello is an Italian lemon liquor mainly produced in Southern Italy in towns like Positano. Usually, it’s made from the zest and skins of Sorrento lemons along the coast that are steeped in pure alcohol until the oil comes out which is then mixed with a simple syrup. It’s the second most popular liquor in Italy and is starting to become popular all around the world now. It’s very sweet and usually served as an after-dinner drink to clear your palette but be very careful because a little goes a long way!
LEMON GRANITA: All over the Amalfi Coast was this incredible lemon granita. It’s a slushy drink (or a semi-frozen desert) made from sugar, crushed ice, and various flavors. It’s like a drinkable Italian ice in the best way, and we saw signs for them all over the place. I’d argue that the most popular was a combination of fresh lemon and orange juice, mixed with the sugary ice, that was just so refreshing after (or before) a long day of walking. The stand we went to also had the option of putting a shot of vodka in it if you’re looking for a little something extra
The ultimate refreshing lemon orange granita from Giorgio’s Granita StandThe kind man making them quicker than you can blinkAnother stand we found – the lemons and oranges in Italy were unlike anything I had ever seen. In this photo, the tiny lemons and oranges you see are the one’s we’re used to in the US and the ones they use are two or three times that and have a slightly sweeter flavor coming from the island
Shopping
l’ISOLA DI SAPORI: located down the street from the entrance to the chairlift is the place where Capri’s well-dressed locals and in-the-know tourists come to get sandals hand-made to the shape of their feet. Some of my friends bought sandals from here, had their feet measured and paid for the shoes and shipping which was a little pricey but they’re also custom-fit sandals from Italy…how many people can say they have a pair of these? I didn’t end up getting a pair because the line was too long that day and we had limited time but I would say it’s definitely something to consider investing in
CLOTHING: The center of Capri is filled with high end stores like Gucci, Fendi and Prada, making you feel glamorous but don’t forget the small-shop artisans too (like Carlos above). Also, being a college student studying abroad at the time, I personally wasn’t about to go spend money like monopoly money here but if you have the means to, these stores are there for you! Also, this isn’t all that specific to Capri but worth noting that as we were leaving at the bottom of Capri by our boat, there were tons of stores to explore before we left. Many of my friends and I bought the softest sweatshirts we’ve ever owned from here for 10 or 15 euros, as well as a few t-shirts. This was definitely a great place to stock up on shirts and a lot of them have a nautical feel which make them perfect for summer.
Part of the town of Capri we explored before we got to the chairlift. You can see where we got the lemon orange granita in the bottom right of the photo
BOAT TOUR: Only having a day in Positano, we knew high up on our list was doing a boat ride. The second we got off the bus we ran down to the water and booked a boat. There’s a booth down on the beach that will tell you what boats are available for your size crowd and being that there were only 5 of us, they could put us on pretty much anyone, it was just an option of whether we wanted a cheaper boat that came with a lot of strangers doing the same thing and normally we wouldn’t mind but we ended up paying a little more and getting a private boat so we could relax more. We put our name in and paid (25 euros a person for an hour but there were only 5 of us in total and the boat was really nice!) We did have to wait a little for the next boat so we grabbed a panini and bottle of champagne to hold us over, although we waited until we were on the boat to pop it. The sun was shining, and that hour was one of the highlights of my whole abroad experience
Our boat captain took this – he rocked. He would stop at a few places, explain the history and also give us a chance to jump in the water but we all just enjoyed the peace and quiet eating our panini and drinking champagneMy friends and I enjoying a moment in the sun on the black sand beach
Food & Drink
VINI E PANINI: Right in center of the town before you hit the beach, this place had one of the best panini’s I ate all abroad. They also had snacks and drinks we could stock up on before making our way down to the water and the service was great. We stopped in a few more times throughout the day to pick up souvenirs like little bottles of limoncello!
LIMONCELLO: Limoncello is an Italian lemon liquor mainly produced in Southern Italy in towns like Positano and you can find it in almost every little souvenir shop in the town. Traditionally, it’s made from the zest of Sorrento lemons that are steeped until the oil comes out which is then mixed with a simple syrup. It’s the second most popular liquor in Italy and is starting to become popular around the world now. It’s very sweet and usually served as an after-dinner shot
*Also you can find more lemon granita’s in Positano as well if that’s what you’re in the mood for!
Lunch with a view! Photo by Allie Patrina
Shopping
A few of the little shops lining the streets. Photo by Allie Patrina
We spent most of our day in Positano on the beach so I don’t have any specific stores to recommend, but I think the best thing to do would be to spend some time walking around the small streets and go into stores that catch your eye. They sell a lot of beautiful summer clothes, jewelry, hats, sunglasses and other beach attire (pretty much anything you might have forgotten at home) at fairly reasonable prices considering they make a majority of their money every year from tourism. They also have ice cream in a few stores which as great as gelato was, a real ice cream sandwich was just what we needed that day
THE DUOMO AND BELL TOWER: Also known as the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, this is the main church in Italy and easily one of the most spectacular churches ever. Construction started in 1296 and was completed in 1436. It’s a great center point for directions or if you’re lost because it’s so hard to miss from wherever in Florence you may be. I was lucky enough to live in an apartment literally right across the street from the Duomo and even though I walked by it every single day, I always noticed something knew. The interior decoration is less colorful and kept to a minimum but the exterior design certainly makes up for it. It takes a few minutes just to walk around the whole cathedral (believe me, my friend and I tried to race around it once and couldn’t do it in under a minute). The ornate detail is absolutely stunning up close and once you see it in person, you’ll know why everyone raves about it.
The view from my apartment window…tough living right?When you climb the Duomo it takes you very close to the ceiling where you can see The Last Judgment scenes painted on the inner dome by Vasari and Zuccaro up close
If you aren’t claustrophobic or afraid of heights, I’d definitely recommend climbing the Duomo and the Bell Tower. If you go inside the Bell Tower next to the Duomo, you can get a ticket for 15 Euros. It’s important to note that the ticket is good for two days and lets you climb the Duomo, the Bell Tower, and see inside St. John’s Baptistery. Don’t do what I did (hiking up both within an hour along side 6 of my guy friends who are all tall enough to take stairs 3 at a time). I would recommend doing the Bell Tower first because then you get the view of the Duomo and if you want you can come back and do the Duomo the next day. Thankfully the Baptistry is on the ground and doesn’t require any climbing so you can go inside that whenever. Also just for some size perspective, the golden ball at the top of the dome is big enough to fit a smart car inside of it!
The view through the cage on top of the Bell TowerThe view from the top of the DuomoAt the top of the Duomo with my friends I climbed with (if you look closely you can see the fence that surrounds the top so you’re safe!)Here you can see St. John’s Baptistry on the left, the Duomo and the dome behind it, as well as the Bell Tower on the right
ACCADEMIA GALLERY: Also known as the Galleria dell’Accademia, it has paintings by Boticelli, Portornmo and Allori to name a few but the piece responsible for drawing most of the tens of thousands of people in every year is Michelangelo’s David. Don’t get me wrong, the other artwork is phenomenal, but walking into the gallery with one of my classes on a field trip, I wasn’t expecting much to be honest. However, the second I turned the corner and walked into the hall lined with paintings with David waiting at the end, my jaw dropped. No matter how many photos or souvenirs of the David I had seen prior to going (and when you’re in Italy be prepared to see a lot), nothing could prepare me for seeing it up close. I had no clue the magnitude of the statue but for someone who probably doesn’t appreciate art as much as they should, I can definitely see why it’s one of the most famous sculptures in the world. I would highly recommend going if you can, there are ways to buy tickets online and skip the lines but the full ticket is 8 euro and a reduced ticket for 4 euros is available for EU students or those with a visa
The Gipsoteca or hall of models filled with both plaster models done by Bartolini and Pampaloni, and a collection of paintings and sculptures which were awarded by the Academy of Fine Arts of Florence
UFFIZI GALLERY: The Uffizi Gallery is located right next to the Arno and is home to 45 different halls, including famous works of art by Botticelli, Michelangelo, Raffaello and Da Vinci just to name a few. It is one of the oldest museums in the world but you can’t tell at all when walking inside. If you just walk up and get in line, the chances are you’ll be there for awhile but you can go to www.uffizi.org to book tickets online and avoid the lines. It’s important to note that the museum is closed on Monday’s, so keep that in mind when booking tickets
One of the hallways in the UfizziThe Birth of Venus by Botticelli, 1486Doni Tondo, or The Holy Family by Michelangelo, 1596. It’s the only painting by Michelangelo in Florence, as well as the only finished panel painting by him to survive.There is also a rooftop terrace cafe in the museum overlooking Piazza della Signoria where you can see Palazzo Vecchio on the right and the Duomo in the background
Treasures Across the Arno
PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO: Home to undoubtedlythe best panoramic view of Florence, and a perfect place for photos. Whenever anyone tells me they’re going to Florence, the first thing I tell them is to grab a bottle of wine and hike to Piazza Michelangelo for sunset. It’s quite a hike across the river so wear comfortable shoes, but I’m not much of a hiker and I did it at least once a week…once you get up there you’ll know why! There’s also a beautiful rose garden right below it next to the stairs going up that I would highly recommend checking out! It helps to go a little before sunset to grab a seat on the steps especially if you’re with a few friends and stopping by Conad (they have nice bottles of wine for 3 euro!) or grabbing a panini on the way is a great idea *If you have mobility issues there are buses or taxis you can take that will take you up here the back way, don’t ruin your vacation trying to take the stairs!
The stairs up seem to go on forever but it’s well worth it!Some of my friends on the stairs…you can see how packed they get right before sunset!No matter how many times you hike up here, the view never gets oldTaken further back from the stairs and wall, you can see the crowds and Duomo in the distance, the red heart was done in flowers for Valentine’s Day!
ROSE GARDEN: Located just below and to the left of Piazzale Michelangelo is a beautiful rose garden. The best time to come is in May or June when the over 350 varieties of roses planted here are blooming. These photos below were taken in early May and already it was so bright and colorful everywhere you looked. Before 2011, this garden was only opened in May and June when the flowers were blooming, but since the addition of 12 sculptures throughout the building as well as some beautiful lemon trees, you’re welcome to walk through it year round now from 8am to 8pm daily.
PITTI PALACE: Also known as Palazzo Pitti, it was bought by the Medici Family (the royal family of Italy) during the Renaissance in the 1550’s. Later in the 18th century it was used as a home base by Napoleon, but the palace and the treasures inside were donated to the Italian people in 1919. Since then it has been transformed into the largest museum in Florence. I highly recommend getting a ticket to the museum inside, the rooms and works of art are just breathtaking. You can find the ticket window to the far right of the entrance if you’re looking at the Palace. Here you can get a 7 euro ticket that will get you in to both the Boboli and Bardini gardens as well as the costume museums, or for 11 euros you can get a ticket that will admit you to those three as well as the Palatine Gallery and Gallery of Modern Art that are inside Pitti Palace, and this ticket is good for three days so you can split it up
The White Room inside Pitti Palace. Photo by Maggie LymanThe Kings Room in the Palace. Photo by Maggie LymanThe view of the Boboli Gardens from inside the Palace. Photo by Maggie Lyman
BOBOLI GARDENS: These famous gardens are located right behind Pitti Palace, and house sculptures dating back to the 16th century. The grounds are immaculate and as you walk through it you’ll notice that there are different layers to the garden. If you go all the way to the top up the stairs you’ll find a maze-like garden with exquisite views, as well as a building that encases the porcelain museum of Pitti Palace
The back of Pitti Palace with the Duomo in the far background on the rightThe “ampitheater” of the gardens when you turn to the right of the previous photo, filled with statues based on Roman myths
The view of Boboli Gardens from the top as you look down, with Neptune’s Fountain in the middle of the pond. Photo by Maggie LymanThe gardens at the very top, with the porcelain museum in the backgroundRagnaie or “spiders lane” further if you go up the path at the beginning and take a right
Pretty Places
PONTE VECCHIO: Literally translating to “Old Bridge”, this medieval stone bridge has been suspended over the Arno River for hundreds of years, with evidence of it’s existence dating as far back as the year 966 although it has been rebuilt multiple times since. It was the only bridge in Florence not destroyed by the Germans during World War I and originally had butcher shops along the sides of the bridge. Currently, the store fronts are home to jewelers, artists and souvenir sellers. You can see the shop windows as well as Vasari’s Corridor if you look at the row of windows on the top of the bridge where the Medici family could travel back and forth from Pitti Palace to Palazzo Vecchio without being seen. The bridge can be easily recognized from afar by the three large arches in the center, as well as the brightly colored shop walls
Looking at the bridge from the back side.Some of the jewelry sold along the bridgeI love that you can look through the shops and see right through to the water
PIAZZA DELLA REPUBLICCA: Piazza della Republicca was one of my favorite squares to just walk around in because of the carousel and there was always some kind of show going on. There are great restaurants and cafes surrounding the square and I loved the energy the children constantly running around brought to it
A great option when you’re trying to go somewhere close by in Italy, they’re used all the time. You can buy a local ticket at any tabacchi store (the equivalent of a tobacco store, they’re on every corner and usually have a big white “T” sign with a blue background hanging in front of them) and tickets are very cheap – you can also buy postage stamps here. Once you get your ticket and get on the bus, you must validate your ticket immediately because the bus driver won’t check you’re ticket. There are little machines at the front and back of the bus where you put the ticket in and it will stamp it with the date and time. If you forget to validate your ticket and ATAF staff come on board, they can ask to see your ticket and fine you 50 euros for not having done so because they have no way of telling how long you’ve been on the bus for. While I do that a lot of people usually don’t get caught and if you don’t validate your ticket you can save it to use again, but one of my friends got fined and if you don’t pay that fine within 5 days it jumps up to 240 euros so you’re much better off safe than sorry!
TRAINS:
I used the train system a lot more than I thought I would initially. Florence’s main train station, Firenze Santa Maria Novella was a 10 minute walk from the Duomo. The Italian train system is Trenitalia and they have a high speed train that goes from Florence to Rome (and vice versa) in 90 minutes which is helpful if you’re flying out of Rome which we did a few times because it was cheaper to fly out of Rome than Florence. It’s very easy to buy a train ticket online and I would recommend it to anyone
Food
Their dinner usually starts around 7:30 or later than I think most of us are used to so keep that in mind when making reservations or plans. Before dinner especially on the weekends most Italians will go to an aperitivo and have a few pre-dinner snacks and drinks after work to pass the time from work to dinner.
Breakfast isn’t nearly as much of a meal as it is in America, and odds are you’ll get a strange look if you order a cappuccino after 11am.
In general, food will most likely be cheaper the farther away you get from the Duomo. Not by much but they know that tourists will be happy to go to their shops if they’re close by the more touristy places so just keep that in mind
Apps
Download WhatsApp before you go which is a free messaging app that you can get on your iPhone or other smartphone. It uses wi-fi or data to let you message/call friends and family. There aren’t any fees, you can send multimedia messages, group chat, and you can use the same number you had before you left if you end up getting an SMS card with an Italian number while you’re there
Download “PocketGuide Audio Travel Guide with Offline Maps” – it’s free and has 150 major cities into it so you can download the map of the city you’re staying in or going to on wifi, and it will still work even if you’re not connected to data or wifi.
Banking
There are plenty of BNL banks in Florence which are the equivalent to Bank of America. It’s also probably a better idea to take out more money at once or before you go then hide it as opposed to taking out money frequently. Also don’t toss your coins away as quickly as you would in the US. Those 1 and 2 euro coins are great for small purchases like gelato and paninis!
Electronics
There’s an Apple store located in Piazza della Repubblica by the carousel that was a huge life saver for me. I was pick-pocketed twice abroad in Paris and London but thankfully had friends and family coming over who brought me old used iPhones. Whether you need a new charger, to figure out the wifi situation or a new phone (hopefully you don’t!), it’s nice to know that it’s there if you need it
Try to buy European chargers/hair straighteners/dryers before you go, you can get or rent them abroad too but they will probably be more expensive and they take up little space in your suitcase
Misc.
SUNDAYS: Sundays in Italy are generally seen as a day to go to church and be with your family so a lot of small stores will be closed on Sunday’s so owners can be with their families. The grocery store and a few small stores will be open, usually with limited hours but just plan accordingly if there’s somewhere specific you want to go
LAUNDRY: Very rarely in an Italian apartment will they have a dryer for your clothes. Many accommodations will either have a small washing machine and foldable drying rack instead of a dryer. Unless you’re 5 feet tall like me and rely on the dryer to re-shrink your clothes every time to fit you, you really shouldn’t have a problem with this. You’ll see a lot of clotheslines out, especially across the river in the more authentic neighborhoods. The most realistic option if you’re only there for a week or so and not an extended amount of time would be to bring a little detergent or soap, wash the few dirty clothes in the sink and hang them to dry while you go out and explore. They air dry pretty quickly and while there are laundry services you can bring your clothes too but those are pretty expensive per piece of clothing and I would rather spend that 15 or 20 euro on more gelato and pizza!
SHOES: Bring very comfortable shoes (also bonus points if you have a fit bit because you’ll walk more than you’ve ever imagined)
LEATHER MARKET: I recommend the one by San Lorenzo as opposed to the ones closer to the bridge because I found it to be a little less expensive and they were more open to bargaining, although the items the markets sell are virtually the same.
Some tips for getting what you want for cheaper:
Go in with an idea of what you want (jacket, purse, gloves, etc.) and an idea of what you want to spend
Ask them to do the lighter test because there are some vendors who will try to sell you fake leather. If it’s real leather, they should have no problem in taking out a lighter or small match/flame and run it along the leather – if the lighter doesn’t leave a burn mark or melt it, you know it’s real. Vendors are used to people asking them to do this so don’t think it’s an odd request!
If you look interested then walk away, vendors will most likely yell after you to come back and give you a lower price just because they want the sale
You can definitely bargain with them and having a lot of small bills (5 or 10 euros) is a good idea so you can say you only have a certain amount of money on you. I found that you could get the small purses down to around 15 euros and smaller goods like coin purses around 5
A few of the purses and items you can buy in the San Lorenzo market
Food
CENTRAL MARKET: Right past the leather market by San Lorenzo. It’s a little overwhelming at first but they have more food there then you can ever imagine and it’s also a great place for gifts and souvenirs! The first floor is more of a market, with boxes of pasta, spices, meats, breads, cheeses, etc. that you can take home and make. The top floor has countless vendors and restaurants selling their food with only the freshest ingredients, but they have such a wide variety from gelato milkshakes (which I highly recommend) to the best burgers in Florence.
CONAD: Florence’s grocery stores. They’re around every corner and are great if you want to duck in and grab something to snack on, especially on a long walk somewhere. They have the equivalent of plenty of American brands, you just have to look for them, but if you’re looking for peanut butter, you’re out of luck! Also a good idea to buy paper towels/toiletries here instead of pharmacies that are mainly used for medicine and toiletries will be much cheaper here!
Clothing
One thing that was nice about Florence was that while there were all of these incredible stores you could only find in Italy, there were also American stores close by. We found a 3-floor H&M, a 4-floor Zara, a Brandy Melville and more within minutes of the Duomo.
They don’t have many department-type stores, but the one that I found was called Coin, and very reminiscent of a Macy’s or Nordstrom’s. It was a little pricey but on the lower floor is the clearance section and it was nice to know if we needed an extra towel or extra set of bed sheets we had a place we could go to.
Another option is La Rinascente, which is similar to Macy’s or Bloomingdales. There’s a lot of mid to high end merchandise here. The store is near Piazza della Repubblica and has four floors of clothing, designer goods and housewares. It has a somewhat unassuming store front but the top level has a cafe with a great view of the Duomo (see Food & Drink).
Two servings of the fresh spaghetti with tomatoes and basil, and tortellini with walnut cream sauce at Osteria Santo Spirito. Photo by Allie Patrina
Restaurants
OSTERIA SANTO SPIRITO: As many restaurants as I tried in my time abroad, this is a place I just kept coming back to because I knew it wouldn’t disappoint. It’s on the other side of the river in Piazza Santo Spirito which is probably about a 15 minute walk from the Duomo. I recommend the gnocchi with soft cheese gratin and truffle oil…best meal I had there. All of the pasta and meat dishes are incredible, and it doesn’t hurt that they usually give you complimentary prosecco. What I liked about this place was the authentic atmosphere, and that they have half and whole portions, and with food as rich as theirs, sometimes a half portion was all I need. It’s very reasonably priced and also doesn’t hurt at any of these to ask the waiter/waitress what they like! It’s open from 12-11:30 every day but make sure you call ahead and make a reservation because it can get very busy. (Also make sure you’re not calling the church next to it which is just called Santo Spirito, I made that mistake once and they sounded very confused when I asked if they could seat five…oops!)
Gnocci with soft cheese gratin and truffle oil – my go to!Rigatoni santo spirito with tomato sauce and dry ricotta cheese, also another favorite. Photo by Allie Patrina
OSTERIA DE’ PECCATORI: The spaghetti carbonara from here was great, I went a few times just for that. It’s not too fancy and not too shabby. What I liked was they have tons of variety of food here.
YELLOW BAR: Incredible homemade pasta here. They change the specials daily but you can’t go wrong with their caprese salad, and the pear ravioli was to die for, even if it sounds a little wierd!
GUSTA PIZZA: Get any pizza, you won’t be disappointed. You’ll most likely end up coming here more than once during your trip, it’s that good (This is Giada DiLaurentis’s favorite pizza place!) Although it’s on the other side of the Arno River, I would usually get the pizza then go sit on the bridge and eat it, or walk up the street and sit on the steps of Pitti Palace
It was so cool to watch them make it right in front of you!
Margherita Pizza with pesto. Photo by Allie Patrina
50 SFUMATURE DI GUSTO: This place was right across from my friends’ apartment so we went here pretty often. I recommend the pear and gorgonzola tortellini or any other pasta because it’s so fresh and the flavors are incredible. My favorite food item from there though had to be Coccoli, which is fried dough balls, stracchino cheese, and prosciutto. I would take the dough ball, wrap it in prosciutto and dip it in the creamy stracchino cheese..definitely not healthy but so delicious. They also have great complimentary starters (usually a flatbread of some kind) and prosecco which is always a plus in my book. As someone who has tried probably most of their menu at this point, it’s pretty hard to go wrong with whatever you choose. Their service was great and when we told them it was one of our last nights here they went above and beyond and brought us so much free food to thank us for eating here often which was definitely not necessary but very kind
LA GIOSTRA: More pricey and fancy but definitely worth the money. I went here with my friends parents one night when they came to visit him. It’s a dark restaurant lit mainly by candlelight but had some of the best food ever. I would recommend the caprese salad for sure as well as the pear ravioli, even if it sounds a little weird I promise it’s incredible. This is also where a bunch of famous celebrities go when they come to Florence and their photos are all over the walls with the owner!
CLOUD 59: A nice break from Italian food because while it’s true that Florence food is some of the best in the world, sometimes you’re just in the mood for a burger. If you’re only there for a week I would say check out the restaurant suggestions in the Food & Drink section, but if you’re abroad for an extended amount of time, this place is a great option when you miss American food (I didn’t think it would happen but it did). They had the best burgers around, and for those who like Dunkin’ Donuts coffee, the owner Alex is from Boston and brought over their coffee grounds. My roommate and I would stop by after class sometimes just to have a sip of something that reminded us from home
*Important to know within Italy: yes, you have to pay for water – it isn’t just automatically brought to your table on the house. A large bottle for the table will usually cost no more than 2 to 3 euros which isn’t bad especially if you split it among everyone, but just something to be aware of. I usually would forgo buying water and stock up on huge 1.5 liter bottles for 25 cents and leave them in my apartment, taking a small reusable water bottle around. You also usually have to pay for the bread which will show up as a “pane e coperto” charge, where they will usually charge the bread basket and a service or cover charge of a few euros for coming in.
Panini’s
PINO’S: The real name is Salumeria Verde but many just refer to it as Pino’s for the man who runs the place. Pino was easily one of the kindest people I encountered in Florence. Every time I walked into his shop he always had a huge smile on his face and was happy to make whatever you’d like. I would recommend the classic Caprese Panini or the Turkey Best, although anything you get here will be amazing, and their pesto sauce is out of this world.
Photo by Allie Patrina
LA FETTUNTA: Probably my favorite Panini place (also directly to the right of Al Antico…a small hole in the wall you have to look for but definitely worth it). Service is fast, they make it right in front of you and they warm it up for you before giving it to you, unlike All’Antico. I didn’t have a specific favorite, I would just go ask for a bunch of toppings and make it my own (also, they don’t have pesto but they have rucola which tastes similar but is light and made with arugula, great on any sandwich!)
*Also, if you’re gluten free, you can go down the street from these places to a tiny shop called Starbene where they have every gluten free pastry or bread you could want. Buy some bread there and take it to Pino’s or La Fettunta and they’ll make your sandwich on that bread!
A warm panini with prosciutto, mozzarella, tomato and arugula. Photo by Gabby Lopez
ALL’ANTICO VINAIO: The one everyone raves about and don’t get me wrong, it definitely lives up to the name if you want a sandwich bigger than your face for 4 euro. I would just recommend La Fettunta first if you’re looking to avoid the line!
“The Summer Sandwich” with prosciutto, tomato, arugula, basil, oil, and saltA classic panini with prosciutto, arugula, tomato and pecorino cheese. Photo by Allie Patrina
DA FIASCHINO: This is a great little hole-in-the-wall place, near the Duomo but outside of the tourist zone. Located right across the street from The Oil Shoppe, I would go get an iced coffee from there (best iced coffee in Florence) and then come here for a panini. The service is very good and they’re always willing to make you exactly what you want if nothing on their menu grabs you. Their panini’s are very filling, and you can get a sandwich and glass of wine for 4 euro…can’t beat it!
The caprese panini – so good
Cafe’s
*Important to know within Italy: unless your feet are killing you or you’re planning on being there awhile, avoid sitting down in cafe’s, or what Italians call a “bar”. As soon as you sit down, the price of whatever you’re eating or drinking usually double or triples. If you look up at the menu, “banco” is the price if you stand while eating and “tavolo” is if you’re sitting. The price will usually vary by a few euros and if you want to sit down, by all means go ahead, just know that you’ll most likely pay a little more than if you stand
NEWS CAFE: Known for their designs in your cappuccinos, they’re an inviting little cafe by San Lorenzo if you’re looking for a great spot to do work.
LA MILKERIA: Great food there, you can get waffles or crepes with nutella or gelato or fresh fruit! One of my favorite breakfast places especially since breakfast isn’t a big thing over there, and everything is around 5 euro so it’s ver reasonably priced too. It is a pretty cramped place to sit and eat or do homework (although they do have free wi-fi) so try to go either earlier in the day but it’s also one of the only places I found that serves iced coffee!
A crepe filled with nutella and strawberryA waffle topped with nutella and fresh fruit
LA MENAGERE: A beautiful atmosphere for doing work or grabbing a croissant and cappuccino, filled with fresh flowers and I think it’s only been open for a few years. Even if you don’t buy something it’s definitely worth walking through!
SOTT’ARNO:Located across the Arno on Via Maggio, the cafe is a small space with a few tables but they have a great late breakfast or lunch in panini form. Their panini’s are incredible and the atmosphere is really interesting, as the walls are lined with menus from restaurants that the owner Matteo and his friends have collected throughout the years. It’s open from 10am-6pm and closed on Sundays.
GELATO
Word to the wise: The biggest mistake people make when buying gelato is buying the gelato that looks the most delicious and colorful in the window. The big beautiful piles of gelato are very tempting and you would probably get a decent gelato, maybe a little overpriced and be perfectly happy with it. However, the gelaterias with the huge displays aren’t typically made fresh and are full of preservatives so they can stay looking nice in the hot summer. That certainly isn’t to say that all gelaterias with brightly colored gelato should be avoided by just be wary of the gelaterias with brightly colored gelato piled high looking perfect, especially if you’re close to a touristy destination. There are tons of great places for gelato filled with fresh ingredients and I’d hate for you to miss out on authentic gelato so I’ve listed what I think are some of the best places below (and don’t be afraid to ask to try a flavor, they’re usually very nice about it and encourage you to get two flavors even if you get a small sized cup or cone (which is great for indecisive people like myself!)
GELATERIA LA CARRAIA: The best place for gelato in my opinion. There are two locations, one across the bridge near Gusta Pizza (great for after lunch!) and one close to Santa Croce. Cookies was my go-to flavor but they have tons of flavors filled with fruit as well if you’re looking for something more refreshing and very reasonably priced
LA MENAGERE: A beautiful atmosphere for doing work or grabbing a croissant and cappuccino, filled with fresh flowers and I think it’s only been open for a few years. Even if you don’t buy something it’s definitely worth walking through!
SOTT’ARNO:Located across the Arno on Via Maggio, the cafe is a small space with a few tables but they have a great late breakfast or lunch in panini form. Their panini’s are incredible and the atmosphere is really interesting, as the walls are lined with menus from restaurants that the owner Matteo and his friends have collected throughout the years. It’s open from 10am-6pm and closed on Sundays.
GELATERIA DEI NERI: A close runner up with a great variety of flavor selections, and very reasonable prices if you go behind Palazzo Vecchio and walk parallel to the river.
Two of my favorite flavors there – nutella and stracciatella
EDOARDO’s: Located right on the corner an arms length away from the Duomo, you can almost always count on a line out the door but it moves very quickly. It’s hard to choose a favor to suggest because they change their flavors every week and use only the freshest ingredients, keeping it all organic. I recommend getting their homemade waffle cones for 50 cents more than a cup regardless of what flavor you get. While some of their flavors like apple, white-mint blueberry, or cinnamon may not be the most common, they’re definitely worth a try! Also for you Beyonce fans, it has been said that this is her go-to gelato in Florence!
Drinks
Taken on the rooftop bar at Hotel Tornabuoni Beacci
LA RINASCENTE: A great place to go if you’re looking for a nice cocktail with a view of the Duomo. If you go through the La Rinascente, a department store, take the escalator to the 4th floor, and then the stairs to the 5th, you’ll walk out to an amazing view of the Duomo. You may have to wait a few minutes because the terrace is a little small but I found the drink prices to be reasonable considering the breathtaking view you have. A coffee is around 3 euro and a cocktail is around 9. They’re open from 10:30 to 8:30 most days.
My two friends in the middle of the photo sitting on the balcony there (that only holds about two people)
JJ CATHEDRAL IRISH PUB: Located feet away from the Duomo, this is a great place to grab a beer. You can also sit out on the balcony that really only holds a few people, but they have a decent menu of burgers and fries. The service isn’t that great but the view makes it worth it!
I’MARGARITAIO COCKTAIL BAR: This place also has a great selection of margarita flavors that are bigger than your face, and if you go during happy hour (from 5:30-7pm) you can get them for around 5 euros. It’s a cosy atmosphere, usually packed and they also don’t split the check here for groups so just keep that in mind.
**A lot of hotels in the area, especially close to the Arno have rooftop bars (like Hotel Tornabuoni Beacci above) so when making a reservation, it doesn’t hurt to ask if they have a rooftop bar as well!
WINE TOUR/TASTING: If Italy is known for one drink, it has to be wine. Being in the wine capital of the world, there are wine tours as far as the eye can see and it’s so easy to google or find one that works for you. If you would like recommendations feel free to contact me. Most of them are half day trips that will pick you up and bus you from the Santa Maria Novella train station, bring you to a vineyard and give you the history of the wine, provide some food and bring you back in the early afternoon. There are so many to choose from but highly recommend doing a half day trip if you can fit it into your schedule!
THE LION’S FOUNTAIN: Just throwing this in here. Odds are unless you’re studying abroad, you’ll want to avoid this place because it’s usually filled with American college kids. With that being said, it was a nice place to go and just grab a beer where you could meet up with kids your own age! A pretty typical dive bar but not bad if you just want to grab a drink!
Misc.
OIL SHOPPE: Probably the best iced coffee I’ve ever had (in Florence). I don’t know how they did it but it was so frothy and good so if you like iced coffee definitely check it out. I do think there are better places to find a sandwich though, I found their bread to be tough.
The first Sunday of each month is FREE MUSEUM DAY in all the state museums in Italy! These include the Uffizi, Gallery of Accademia, Bargello, Medici Chapels, Pitti Palace (all museums inside), San Marco (open every second Sunday), Palazzo Davanzati (open every second Sunday morning only), and Medici Villas. While it is great to get in for free and save a few euros, keep in mind that the lines for these weeks will be verylong so try going as early as you can and pick one or two museums
BARDINI GARDENS: Right behind the Boboli Gardens you can find the equally beautiful but much less crowded Bardini Gardens. While abroad, I took a class called “Gardens of Love” where we explored a new garden every week (tough, right?). I was lucky enough to come here three times for different class field trips and every time I noticed new things. There are documents describing evidence of a garden here that date back to the 13th century and after 5 years (and 12 million euros in restoration), these gardens were re-opened to the public in 2010. Open now almost every day of the week, these gardens are filled with spectacular views, sculptures and even a nice little cafe and museum at the top!
The view right at the entrance to the gardens, with the fountain of Venus in the distanceSome of my classmates in our “Gardens of Love” class in a candid photo taking in the viewThe kind ground maintenance guy who waved to us as we walked by – I can’t imagine the hard work that goes into constantly maintaining these beautiful gardens!The gorgeous wisteria-covered pergola in the gardenTaken through a window inside the little museum at the top of the gardensEven in it’s busiest times, this garden is much more peaceful and easier to navigate than the popular Boboli Gardens
PALAZZO VECCHIO: Located in the main square of Piazza della Signora (a two minute walk to the right of the Duomo), this building is now mainly a museum but also serves as the town hall of Florence. Since 1872 it has housed the office for the mayor of Florence and Michaelangeo’s David stood at the entrance from 1504 until 1873 when it was moved to Galleria Academia and a replica was put in it’s place. You can walk inside and buy a ticket but I would highly recommend getting a tour guide because there is so much to see and they can tell you the history behind it all.
VASARI CORRIDOR: The Vasari Corridor is an elevated, enclosed passageway that connects Palazzo Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It starts on the south side of Palazzo Vecchio, joins the Uffizi Gallery and continues traveling down and across the Ponte Vecchio bridge, over a row of houses and then finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 5 months in by the order of Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici in 1565 in conjunction with his son Francesco’s marriage to Joanna of Austria. The Grand Duke and his wife Eleonora wanted to be able to move freely between where he lived and the government palace while avoiding the public. A majority of the Corridor has been closed off to the public since then but there is a section in the Uffizi Gallery filled with artist self-portraits which can be seen in small tour groups only conducted by a licensed tour operator and accompanied by two government officials. Unfortunately the corridor is closed for refurbishment until 2018 but when it reopens it should definitely be on your list to check out
FLOWER MARKETS: One day after class as I was walking around, I stumbled upon a flower market happening in Piazza della Republicca. I immediately googled it (google was my best friend abroad) and found out it happens in the Spring right under the arch in the square. The flowers were all beautiful and there’s every kind of plant imaginable. Even if you’re not going to buy anything, it’s cool to see the displays of flowers we might not have here, or learn the Italian word for your favorite flower. Check it out every Thursday from 10-7although you have a better chance of getting the flowers you want if you go earlier. They also only take cash but bargaining is allowed within reason
I’m a recent college grad who studied abroad in Florence, Italy in the Spring of 2016 and came home with a new outlook on the world. I was never much of a traveler before I went abroad but I quickly fell in love with the endless opportunities and new things to discover that come with traveling somewhere new. You can usually find me behind the camera regardless of my location, and I have thousands of photos from abroad as evidence. I filled my notebook almost everyday documenting everything possible because as much as I’d like to think I’d remember it all, there was just no way. When I came home last summer, even though I originally wrote down everything just for myself, I knew I wanted to organize all my photos and notes into something that wasn’t just in a notebook I would read maybe once a year. Since then, I’ve had friends ask me for suggestions so I figured putting the information I’ve collected into a blog would be a great way to share my photos and stories with others. Now that I just graduated college and have a little more time to focus on this without the distraction of school, I’m hoping to update this blog weekly so bare with me for a few weeks while I get started! I spent almost 5 months in Florence, went to 6 countries aside from Italy and thirty something cities but I’m not an expert about Europe or studying abroad by any means! I’ve just compiled everything I learned or wish I knew before going in the hopes to help someone else, whether they’re studying abroad and not sure where to start or just looking for a new place to eat! If you have any questions or recommendations you think I should add, feel free to contact me and I will credit you! Enjoy!
Hi and welcome to my blog!